How to Disassemble a 1987 Force Gear Box
You've seen the bumper sticker: A bad 24-hour interval of boating is ameliorate than a expert day at piece of work. Merely would you really feel that way if you were adrift ten miles from the ramp, with a boatload of tired, cranky passengers and an engine that won't commencement? Or an outboard motor not running at full power? At that bespeak, you demand a plan.
Your first move might be to Google what causes a boat motor to lose power? If you lot're lucky, you'll notice a listing of reasons why your engine won't start, and the solution to your problem will be 1 of the easy ones to prepare. Yet, not every fix is easy and not every boater is handy, and your only choice might exist to ask for help — either from a professional towing company or a fellow boater.
If you are somewhat handy and comfy troubleshooting engine problems, yous've come up to the right place. Nosotros surveyed a group of respected boat mechanics to come up with the 10 well-nigh common boat engine problems, and so compiled a consensus on what information technology would have to save the day — and how to forestall future outings from premature endings.
Check out these ten simple solutions for the near common engine breakdowns.
- Running out of gas
- Gunkhole engine is sputtering and losing power
- Engine won't start or turn over
- Boat engine is overheating
- Boat motor stopped suddenly
- Vibration from the engine prop
- Engine won't shift into gear
- Trim is stuck on the engine
- Lack of preventative maintenance
- Broken drive belt
Running Out of Gas
The number one reason why boaters get stuck out on the water is a lack of gas. And while we know you're way too smart to run out of gas, yous still might desire to make sure your gunkhole'due south fuel gauge is accurate — or plan accordingly, if it'due south not. In addition, knowing a bit about your boat'southward fuel burn and operating range could save you from guessing, and then making that embarrassing call for help.
Solution: Fill up the tank before your outing and make sure you tin can trust your fuel gauge.
Prevention: Always abide past the "Rule of Thirds." Plan to use one-tertiary of your fuel supply to get out for the day; one third to get back; and have ane-third in reserve in case bad weather, rough seas, fog or other unexpected circumstances keep you out longer than planned.
Gunkhole Engine is Sputtering and Losing Power
Your gunkhole feels like information technology'due south running out of strength (and you've ruled out the No. 1 breakdown reason — running out of fuel). You most likely accept a filter problem or fouled plugs. That could exist why your boat motor is losing power.
Solution: Replace the in-line fuel filter. You did bring a spare, didn't yous? If non, you can at least remove and clear the filter element of whatever debris, and drain whatever accumulated h2o. Afterward, inboard/outboard (I/O) owners should remember to vent the engine box thoroughly earlier restarting. If y'all don't, a clogged filter volition seem like a small issue.
Prevention: It's possible to buy a bad load of fuel, but information technology'due south more probable that the fuel went bad while in your gunkhole. Leaving a tank well-nigh empty for long periods of time can cause condensation and h2o in the gas. For long-term storage, fill up the tank, and for periods of more than three months, you might want to consider a fuel stabilizer. If so, make sure to run the boat long enough to become the treated gas into the engine too.
Older tanks might have debris at the bottom, which tin can get stirred up as the fuel level drops. The best solution might be increased filtration. Consider adding a larger aftermarket fuel filter. And don't forget the spare elements.
If it isn't the gas, information technology might be the spark plugs. This is a more common problem on older outboards, merely might be worth a quick check on whatever engine. Carry spares, along with the tools to change them.
Carry Onboard: Spare filter or filter element and a filter wrench.
Engine Won't Offset
Anyone who has ever turned an ignition key knows the frustration of hearing goose egg. Over again, this is near likely an electric issue — a low or dead battery, or a break somewhere in the ignition circuit.
Solution: Check the kill switch. Make sure the shifter is in neutral. Then pay special attention to the starter switch itself. Sometimes, a dash-mounted ignition switch will only become loose in its plumbing fixtures, allowing the entire switch machinery to plough with the key. Fixing this can be as simple as getting behind the dash and tightening up a retaining nut or mounting screws. If the starter groans but won't engage, it could be a depression battery, only it also might be a loose or poor connection.
Prevention: Nosotros'll say it again — inspect, make clean and, if necessary, supersede your wiring periodically. If your coiffure habitually drains the battery by cranking the tunes while at anchor, consider installing a secondary bombardment bank or i of those metering devices that monitors supply and saves enough reserve to ensure a restart.
Acquit Onboard: Screwdrivers with insulated handles; wrench set or crescent wrench; Allen wrenches. A battery charger is also practiced to have on manus.
Gunkhole Engine Is Overheating
The needle on the temperature gauge is rising. This virtually always ways y'all take a lack of water flow in the cooling loop. Outboards, about modest inboards and I/Bone don't take radiators like your car, and instead apply the water they are floating on to cool the engine. If that water stops flowing, the engine heats up and tin ultimately fail.
Solution: Trace the source. In a vast majority of cases, the problem is an obstruction in the raw h2o intake – like weeds, mud or a plastic pocketbook. Locate the intake and clean it out. A loose hose clamp or a split or burst hose tin besides slow water catamenia, and it tin spray damaging moisture around the engine.
Prevention: Regularly service and supercede the impeller. Besides look at the status of its housing. Scarring or pitting of the metal housing can cause even a proficient impeller to lose pumping power.
Make sure you or your mechanic checks for corrosion or blockage in the exhaust organisation. Every and so often, take the exhaust risers and associated components opened up for inspection. Engines with closed-loop cooling systems (substantially a radiator cooled by raw water) take boosted bug such as internal clogging of the estrus exchanger. Beyond ensuring that the coolant reservoir is total, periodic maintenance is the key.
Carry Onboard: Soft wire or rod to ophidian intake clogs.
Boat Motor Stopped Of a sudden
If you're lucky, someone merely bumped the kill switch. Or you lot could be out of fuel. If neither of these checks out, this unremarkably represents some type of electrical failure. It could be a blown fuse or tripped billow, a loose connection or corrosion.
Solution: Showtime with the elementary scenarios. On any boat equipped with a kill-switch and lanyard, brand sure the lanyard cardinal hasn't come loose. Sometimes, it might seem to be engaged, just has actually slipped just enough to activate the switch.
Ignition switches can also neglect or endure loose connections, and though this volition generally likely show upwards at start-up, it's worth piffling with the switch a bit (and checking its attendant billow or fuse) before moving on to the engine side of things.
Back at the business end, where the big wires live, corrosion is your most likely source of bug. Even boaters who contentiously maintain the battery terminals might forget that there'due south another end to those wires, and they also require the occasional cleaning.
If information technology turns out to be something more complex — such as an ignition chip on an EFI engine — you might accept to pull out the prison cell phone or put out a phone call on channel 16.
Prevention: Learn the various components of the ignition organisation, and periodically inspect, clean and coat each exposed connection with an anti-corrosion product.
Deport Onboard: Wire brush to clean terminals and Corrosion X spray.
Vibration from the Engine Prop
The faster you try to get, the worse the vibration is. You might likewise notice the engine racing, while the boat loses speed.
Solution: Something's probable gone wrong with the prop. A nick or gouged blade can create imbalance and vibration; a towrope or fishing line tin can snarl the shaft; a straight striking on an object could remove or misshape enough metallic to brand the prop ineffective.
Sometimes a seemingly proficient prop might have enough unseen distortion or harm to cause cavitation and vibration. Short of changing to a spare prop — which isn't always possible or appropriate when on the water — your best option is to tedious down and concentrate on getting to shore.
If line — specially monofilament — has worked its way into the prop hub, you might have to trim up the motor until yous tin remove the prop and make clean it out. About outboards and I/Os can stand a bit of mono, but if at that place's enough to cause a noticeable decrease in performance, you shouldn't ignore the trouble, as it could pb to permanent harm.
With outboards, the rubber bushing inside the hub can begin to skid and neglect, causing a loss of power. Again, y'all might need to idle domicile.
Prevention: Consider carrying a spare prop, forth with the necessary tools to make the swap. Practice changing props and then in that location are no surprises, if you have to do it away from domicile.
Carry Onboard: Gloves to protect hand from prop blades and a brand-specific prop wrench.
Engine Won't Shift into Gear
You pull away from the dock and push the shifter. The boat never leaves idle speed. The shifter is not engaging the transmission.
Solution: If you have e-link electronic controls, it might be a fuse. But, since 90 percent of minor boats still use mechanical cablevision shifts, it's probably a stuck or broken linkage. Start at the gear box to brand certain the cable hasn't become discrete from the shift lever on the transmission housing. If internal corrosion has caused the cable to stick, attempt wiggling it free — or if demand be, shift manually at the engine/transmission — only don't try any fancy docking maneuvers. If the problem seems to be on the transmission side of the linkage rather than the cable side, it might be an actual manual failure — at that place'due south probably goose egg you can do out on the water. Major boat transmission problems require work at an engine mechanic.
Prevention: The leading cause of transmission failure is lack of fluid or gear oil, and so keep those levels topped off and inverse as prescribed. Regularly maintain the end fittings and hardware, and periodically service the cable.
Carry Onboard: Extra transmission fluid and wire, necktie wraps and J-B Weld for quick linkage repair.
The Trim Is Stuck on Your Engine
You're back at the ramp and the outdrive/outboard won't raise so you tin can go the gunkhole on its trailer and set up for the highway.
Solution: Assuming it'south not a bad fuse, it's some sort of mechanical/hydraulic problem. The simple solution is to wade out back and enhance it by hand. To do this, you lot'll demand to know the location of the trim release valve, which is usually a pocket-sized screw near the base of operations of the outdrive/outboard. Opening this valve volition release pressure from the hydraulic loop, assuasive the drive to tilt.
Prevention: Maintain adequate fluid levels and inspect periodically to ensure there are no leaks or water intrusion into the fluid reservoir.
Acquit Onboard: Large slotted and Philips head screwdrivers to open the release valve.
Lack of Engine Maintenance
Just considering a boat looks clean, doesn't mean information technology'south well-maintained. Time and once again, we hear dealers tell of owners who were meticulous well-nigh washing and polishing their boats, but paid far less attention to the internal workings. Maintenance is not a task well-nigh of usa relish, but a little bit of prevention goes a long way.
Solution: To keep rail of what needs doing and when, we propose that you get with your local NMMA-certified dealer to create a checklist. Follow that list, and yous'll profoundly reduce the chances of ever existence stranded on the water.
Cleaved Drive Chugalug
Yous probably won't hear the sound of a drive belt breaking over the full general engine noise, just you will know something'due south wrong when the overheat warning light comes on, or your voltage meter shows that the alternator isn't charging. Having a broken belt is a scenario unique to inboards and I/Os, and one that can shut you downward in bustle. Without a chugalug intact, you'll have no alternator or water pump.
Solution: In that location's a lot of info out there on jury-rigging a temporary chugalug by using line-fishing line or pantyhose or some such. This might work, but wouldn't it be easier to just bear a spare, forth with the wrenches needed to change it?
Prevention: Audit, tighten and dress the belt. You also might want to check the condition of the pulleys' contact surfaces. Sometimes, corrosion tin can cause rough spots on the pulleys that will consume a make-new belt in short order.
Deport Onboard: Marine tool kit, which includes everything needed for this and other basic repairs.
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How to Disassemble a 1987 Force Gear Box UPDATED
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